TLDR;
In this video, Jessi discusses Redken Shades EQ, a demi-permanent hair color, sharing her experiences and knowledge gained over the years. She covers various aspects, including its nature as an ammonia-free, no-lift color, the difference between gloss and cream forms, mixing ratios, processing times, and techniques for gray blending. She also addresses common misconceptions, such as the role of silicone and its suitability for covering gray hair, and provides a starter kit of essential shades for new stylists.
- Redken Shades EQ is a versatile, no-commitment hair color ideal for toning, glossing, and blending gray.
- Understanding the nuances of mixing, processing, and dilution is crucial for achieving optimal results.
- The natural beige (NB) shades are particularly effective for gray blending, with darker shades providing better coverage.
Introduction to Redken Shades EQ [0:22]
Jessi introduces herself as a salon and hair extension company owner and color and extension specialist. She mentions that she will be discussing Redken Shades EQ, a topic she receives many questions about. She clarifies that she is not affiliated with Redken and shares her personal experiences and knowledge from other Redken educators. She thanks viewers for recommending this topic.
Understanding Redken Shades EQ [1:56]
Redken Shades EQ is an ammonia-free, no-lift demi-permanent color primarily used for toning, glossing, and refreshing hair color. It comes in two forms: gloss and cream. The gloss is a mix of directive and oxidative dyes, offering a translucent, shiny finish, while the cream is 100% oxidative dyes, providing a denser, deeper color. The gloss is mixed with a 2% hydrogen peroxide processing solution (7 volume) for shine and tone without lifting the hair's cuticle. A Crystal Clear developer can be used to dilute the hair color, preventing it from processing too strongly, especially on porous hair.
Mixing and Processing [3:31]
The processing solution is mixed with the gloss. Redken Shades EQ also has a gel developer to thicken the formula, useful for lowlights or root color applications, though it may slow down processing time. The standard processing time is 20 minutes, or 40 minutes for gray coverage. Accurate mixing with a 1:1 ratio is crucial for consistent results. To achieve a lighter result, dilute the solution instead of reducing processing time.
Dilution Techniques [6:59]
Jessi shares three tricks for diluting Redken Shades EQ. The first is using Crystal Clear, the second is mixing with level 9 shades, which are less pigmented, and the third is doubling the processing solution. She notes that Redken Shades EQ lathers like shampoo, allowing stylists to massage it through the hair and assess the color's progress. Shampooing after toning is often unnecessary due to the lathering effect.
Allergies and Application [8:40]
Some clients may be allergic to Redken Shades EQ due to wheat sensitivities. Patch testing is recommended to avoid irritation. The product can be used on both wet and dry hair due to its silicone blend, which improves wet compatibility. Jessi clarifies that the silicones used are naturally derived and beneficial for this specific product.
Decoding Shade Numbers and Gray Blending [10:30]
The "0" in front of Redken Shades EQ level numbers indicates no lift. Jessi recommends using the Redken Shades EQ processing solution map to understand levels, tones, and underlying pigments. She addresses gray blending, stating that Redken Shades EQ is best for blending rather than complete coverage, especially for over 50% gray. Natural Beige (NB) shades have more pigment and provide better gray coverage. The percentage of gray hair should match the percentage of NB in the formula.
Versatility and Filling [13:26]
Redken Shades EQ offers no commitment, making it ideal for root taps, lowlights, toning, and all-over colors. It avoids the need to break through permanent color when clients want to change their hair. When filling hair, Jessi advises filling one level at a time to capture all missing pigments between the starting and target levels.
Starter Kit Recommendations [15:42]
Jessi provides a starter kit list of essential Redken Shades EQ colors, including various levels and tones like 9N, 9NB, 9V, 9P, 9NA, 8N, 8GI, 8WG, 7N, 7P, 7T, 7V, 7GB, 7NA, 6N, 6T, 6NB, 6GN, 5N, 5NA, 5G, 4N, 4NB, 4NA, and 3N. She explains the purpose of each tone, such as 7P for a pearly tone, 7T for counteracting orange tones, and 6GN for neutralizing red. She recommends doubling up on frequently used shades like 9P, 9V, 7N, and 7NA.
Conclusion and Call to Action [18:31]
Jessi concludes by expressing her hope that viewers found the video helpful. She invites viewers to request a part two, where she would demonstrate the techniques on real clients. She encourages viewers to share their own Redken Shades EQ tips and tricks in the comments and asks them to like and subscribe to her channel.
