Brief Summary
In this episode of "A Really Good Cry," Radhi Devlukia interviews dermatologist Dr. Noren Galaria, who shares insights on edible skincare, debunking skincare myths, and protecting skin, especially for people of colour. They discuss the best foods for skin health, foods to avoid, the importance of sunscreen (especially tinted), and common skincare mistakes. Dr. Galaria also touches on treatments, ingredients to look for and avoid, and the reality of collagen loss.
- Eating colourful fruits and vegetables is key for good skin.
- Sunscreen is essential, accounting for 80% of anti-aging.
- Processed foods and high sugar intake are detrimental to skin health.
- Collagen creams are ineffective due to the molecule size.
- Red light masks can worsen melasma.
Edible Skincare: Foods for Healthy Skin
Dr. Galaria advocates for food as medicine, emphasising a varied diet rich in colourful fruits and vegetables. She recommends blueberries (especially wild organic ones for their potent antioxidant properties), green tea (particularly matcha, which can reverse sun damage and precancerous changes), turmeric and ginger (for their anti-inflammatory and skin-glow benefits), and cooked tomatoes (for their lycopine content). She also suggests removing the skin and seeds from tomatoes to reduce inflammatory properties. Frozen fruits and vegetables, especially blueberries, often have better nutrient value than fresh produce due to preservation immediately after picking.
Foods to Avoid for Skin Health
Processed foods, particularly those high in sugar, are detrimental to skin health because they break down collagen and elastin through a process called glycation. Dairy can cause inflammation and skin issues for some people; skim milk may be more problematic than whole milk due to hormonal effects. For those with melasma, balancing hormones is crucial, and incorporating flaxseed and spearmint tea into the diet can be beneficial.
Skincare Mistakes and Prevention for People of Colour
A common mistake among people of colour is the belief that their skin is hardy and doesn't require as much protection. The pigment that protects against sunburn can be damaged, leading to melasma, freckles, and uneven skin tone. Preventative measures include consistent use of tinted mineral sunscreen to protect against both sun and blue light from screens, which can also cause melasma. The sun's intensity and increased pollution contribute to skin damage, making preventative skincare essential.
Anti-Aging Products and Ingredients
Collagen creams are ineffective because collagen molecules are too large to be absorbed by the skin. Instead, peptide creams are recommended as peptides are smaller and can penetrate the skin. Red light masks should be avoided by those prone to melasma due to the heat potentially affecting pigment cells. Retinoids are beneficial for plumping collagen, building skin, and preventing acne, but should be introduced slowly to avoid irritation.
Treatments and Procedures for Pigmented Skin
When treating pigmented skin, it's important to reduce the intensity of treatments to avoid trauma to the pigment cells. While facials can be relaxing, they may not provide significant benefits unless extractions are performed. Peels and micro-needling can be effective if performed by someone experienced in treating pigmented skin, as overly aggressive treatments can cause scarring or worsen melasma. Caution is advised with lasers, as they can cause damage if not used correctly.
Collagen Loss and Aging
Collagen loss begins around age 25 or 26, with a loss of approximately 1% per year. Poor diet, smoking, and sun exposure can accelerate this process. Dermatological treatments aim to temporarily pause or rewind collagen loss, but it's unrealistic to try to look 25 again. Small, consistent actions like eating blueberries and using sunscreen can lead to measurable improvements in skin health.
Practical Tips for Skin Protection
Tinting car windows can protect against sun damage, as the left side of the face (driver's side in America) often shows more pigmentation due to sun exposure. Foods that boost collagen include berries, nuts, leafy greens, and fish (especially the skin). For vegetarians, flaxseed, seaweed, avocados, and soy are beneficial. Ingredients like Pycnogenol (from French tree bark) and Polypodium (a South American fern) can protect and rebuild collagen, offering internal sunscreen benefits.
Botox and Preventative Measures
Botox weakens muscle activity to prevent wrinkle formation and lasts for 3-6 months. It can be preventative if started before wrinkles become etched. However, an obsession with cosmetic procedures can be detrimental to overall happiness. It's important to find a dermatologist who will provide honest advice and discourage unnecessary procedures.
Hair Removal Methods
Temporary hair removal methods like waxing, threading, and dermaplaning are acceptable if performed correctly. Hot wax can cause melasma, and dermaplaning can remove a protective layer of skin. Laser hair removal is a more permanent solution, but hormone changes can stimulate hair growth. When undergoing laser hair removal, it's important to ensure the practitioner uses the appropriate laser for your skin tone (ND:YAG for brown skin, Alexandrite for white skin).
Ideal Skincare Routine
Dr. Galaria recommends saving money on cleansers, moisturisers, and sunscreens, and investing in high-quality active ingredients like vitamin C serums. Layer skincare products from thinnest to thickest. Her routine includes washing with Dove soap, applying a vitamin C serum, and using sunscreen in the morning. In the evening, she washes with Dove soap, applies a retinoid, and uses Cetaphil body cream. She also incorporates ingredients like niacinamide or kojic acid to address pigmentation.
Skincare Ingredients and DIY Masks
Hyaluronic acid is a good moisturiser but not essential. Oils can be beneficial depending on skin type (e.g., rosehip or marula oil for dry skin, squalene or jojoba for oily skin). DIY masks like turmeric and yogurt or Manuka honey can brighten, moisturise, and soothe the skin. Tools like rollers and gua sha can improve circulation and lymphatic drainage. Freezing green tea into ice cubes can help depuff the face and reduce under-eye circles.
Common Skincare Questions Answered
- The most important skincare product for people of colour is tinted sunscreen.
- Dark circles can be caused by genetics, aging, allergies, and lifestyle factors; treatment options include allergy medicine, discoloration serums, and vitamin C.
- The one skincare product Dr. Galaria would ban is collagen cream.
- "Clean skincare" is a marketing term with no regulated definition.
- For active ingredients, expensive skincare is better than drugstore options.
- Fast food is worse for the skin in the short term, while alcohol is worse in the long run.
- For clear, glowy skin in 30 days, focus on diet, exercise, sleep, and sunscreen.
- The best anti-aging trick besides Botox is retinoids.
- Facial exercises can worsen wrinkles.
Truth or Myth: Skincare Edition
- Banana peel on the face can brighten skin, but results are slow.
- Flaxseed masks moisturise and soothe irritated skin.
- Chlorophyll water doesn't effectively clear up acne.
- Sea moss is nutrient-dense and beneficial.
- Pore size is genetic, but products like AHAs and retinoids can improve their appearance.
- Natural skincare products are not always better than synthetic ones; focus on ingredient transparency.
- Olive oil can be a good moisturiser, but scientific ingredients may provide faster and more targeted results.
- Icing the face can reduce swelling.
- Rosacea is often genetic and sun-induced; alcohol should be avoided.
- SPF 30 is sufficient for sun protection.
- Dark knees can be treated with acids for rough and bumpy skin.
