Brief Summary
In this Chemist Confessions podcast episode, Victoria and Gloria revisit the topic of Vitamin C serums, focusing on debunking myths and testing popular dupes of SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic serum. They discuss the history, science, and practical usage of ascorbic acid, sharing "Did You Know" facts and the results of their dupe test, providing insights on what to look for in a Vitamin C serum and when to toss it. They also touch on a fun animal fact about the dwarf lantern shark.
- Ascorbic acid research began 50 years ago with Dr. Pennell, founder of SkinCeuticals.
- A concentration of 20% ascorbic acid is the validated maximum for topical use.
- Ascorbic acid helps with both collagen production and degradation.
- Vitamin C should be applied before sun exposure for preventative effects.
- Cosrx Vitamin C serum is not recommended due to instability and separation issues.
Nice Words We Didn’t Pay For
Victoria and Gloria share positive reviews of their products, emphasizing that these testimonials are unsolicited. One review praises "Mr. Reliable" as a perfect moisturizer, noting its luxurious scent and non-heavy feel, while acknowledging the inclusion of essential oils that contribute to the fragrance. Another review highlights "Baby Steps" exfoliator as a gentle alternative to "Gold Standard," ideal for sensitive skin or during periods of heightened sensitivity. A final review lauds "Blank Slate" gel cleanser for its effective yet non-irritating formula, appreciating its clear bottle design for easy monitoring of product levels.
The Meatz Pt. 1: Did You Know? All About Ascorbic Acid Serums
This section is structured as a series of "Did You Know" facts about ascorbic acid serums. It's revealed that research on ascorbic acid began about 50 years ago with Dr. Pennell, the founder of SkinCeuticals, who rigorously tested its efficacy against other antioxidant molecules. The hosts also discuss how a 20% concentration of ascorbic acid is the validated maximum for topical use, based on percutaneous absorption studies, and that a pH of 3.5 is crucial for optimal absorption. They also clarify that ascorbic acid aids in both collagen production and degradation, a balanced process vital for skin health. Finally, they emphasize that vitamin C's free radical benefits are preventative, not a post-sun exposure treatment, and that tocopherol (vitamin E) has a synergistic antioxidant effect when combined with vitamin C.
Animal Corner: The Lantern Shark
Victoria shares a story about her husband's fascination with ocean monsters, leading into a discussion about the dwarf lantern shark, the world's smallest shark. These sharks are only found off the northern coast of South America, typically near Venezuela and Colombia. The females grow to be seven to eight inches, while the males are generally smaller, averaging around six inches. They are called lantern sharks because they glow in the dark, using photophores to attract prey. Victoria also mentions a children's YouTube show called The Octonauts, which features an episode about the dwarf lantern shark.
The Meatz Pt. 2: The Vitamin C Dupe Test & Results!
Victoria details the results of a vitamin C dupe test, comparing several popular serums to SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic. The tested serums include those from May Love, Cos RX, Paula's Choice, Dr. Brenner, Timeless, and The Ordinary, along with a freshly made lab sample. The serums were "baked" to accelerate stability testing, and their color, smell, and formula consistency were observed over three weeks. Cos RX showed significant instability, with a ballooning dropper, separation of the formula, and an unpleasant smell, leading to a recommendation against its use. Timeless also showed rapid color change and packaging issues. The Ordinary's anhydrous formula remained stable but caused irritation due to the high concentration of propanediol. Overall, the hosts conclude that price isn't a determining factor in quality and advise against hoarding vitamin C serums, recommending using them fresh. They also provide guidelines on when to throw out a vitamin C serum, such as when the dropper starts to balloon, the formula doesn't look uniform, or there are floaties.
