Brief Summary
This video is all about musks in perfumery. It covers what musk is, its origins, the different types of synthetic musks, how to smell them, and how to use them in perfumes. Key takeaways include understanding the historical context of musks, recognizing the different generations of synthetic musks, and learning how to incorporate musks effectively into perfume compositions.
- Musk is a common ingredient in perfumes, originally derived from animal secretions but now mostly synthetic.
- Different generations of synthetic musks exist, each with unique characteristics and uses.
- Learning to smell musks can be challenging, but there are techniques to improve your perception.
- Musks can be used to create a long-lasting, soft base for perfumes, enhancing the overall composition.
Introduction to Musks
The video starts by explaining what musk is in the context of perfumery. Originally, musk came from the secretion of the musk deer, but due to ethical and economic reasons, synthetic musks are now used. These synthetic musks can also be found in some plants, like ambret seed oil and angelica roots oil. Musks are base notes, meaning they last long but don't project much, making them subtle and sometimes hard to smell for beginners. They have a soft, silky, smooth, and powdery scent, forming the background of most perfumes, like a canvas primer.
History and Types of Synthetic Musk
The video then goes into the history of synthetic musks, dividing them into generations. The first generation, nitro musks, were discovered accidentally and widely used but are now mostly banned due to safety concerns. The second generation, macrocyclic musks, were discovered by analyzing animalic raw materials and feature a large ring in their chemical structure. Chemists have been working to improve the synthesis of these musks, driving down costs. Examples include exaltolide, found naturally in angelica root oil, and ethylene brassylate, a workhorse musk derived from rapeseed oil. The third generation, polycyclic musks, have multiple rings in their structure and are commonly used in laundry detergents because they stick well to clothes. Examples include galaxolide and tonalide. The fourth generation is linear or acyclic musks, which have a cotton or linen effect and can vary widely in scent. An example is aplalide, which smells a bit like apples.
Tips If You Have Trouble Smelling Musks
If you're having trouble smelling musks, don't worry, many perfumers face this issue initially. Keep trying to smell them regularly to train your nose. Always dilute the musk to about 10% in perfumer's alcohol and wait for the alcohol to evaporate completely (about half an hour) before smelling. Try smelling the diluted musk on your skin, as some find it easier to detect that way. Another helpful method is to use business card holder boxes to trap the scent and create a more concentrated aroma.
Composing Perfumes with Musks
To use musks in your perfumes, think of them as the primer or background wash on a canvas. They create a long-lasting, soft base for your perfume. Because they are weak and hard to perceive, you can use them in higher concentrations than other raw materials. Start by adding one musk at about 20% of your perfume formula. Try blends with and without musks, and pay attention to how the scent develops on your skin over a four to eight hour period. This will help you understand the effect of the musks on your perfume. Stronger, more animalic musks like tonalide might be used in lower concentrations to give a specific effect.
