TLDR;
Alright, so this video is about formulating a new men's fragrance called "Autumn Amber," aimed at the mature man for fall and winter. The main note is a red amber accord. The video walks through the step-by-step process, explaining why each material is added and its effect on the overall scent.
- The fragrance is designed to be warm, spicy, and slightly gourmand, with a focus on amber, tobacco, and leather notes.
- The formulator emphasizes the importance of balancing naturals and synthetics for both realistic scent and longevity.
- The video highlights the iterative process of perfume creation, including the need to let blends sit and adjust based on how they evolve over time.
Intro: Autumn Amber Fragrance [0:10]
The video kicks off with an intro to a new perfume formulation, "Autumn Amber," a men's fragrance designed for the mature man, perfect for fall and winter. The main player here is the amber note, specifically a red amber with balsamic and oriental qualities, think benzoin, labdanum, and vanilla. The creator has already been working on this formula for a while, and this is revision 12 or 13. He's gonna walk us through the materials, blending, and the reasoning behind each addition.
Base Notes: Musks and Woods [1:30]
Starting with the base notes, first up are the musks. Exaltolide Total (10% dilution) is added for its balanced profile – not too powdery, sweet, dark, or clean. This is followed by Galaxolide (also 10% dilution). The total musk concentration is kept low (around 2.1%) to avoid a powdery, unisex vibe. Next comes cedarwood oil from Texas (20% dilution), making up about 2.2% of the concentrate. Then, there's Karmawood from IFF (10% dilution), a woody amber that turns powdery when stacked with other ingredients.
Base Notes: Ambroxan and Tonka Bean [5:00]
Moving on, Satalox, a softer and more refined version of ambroxan, is added (10% dilution), comprising 2.5% of the perfume. This is followed by a tonka bean accord from Perfumer's Apprentice (full strength), a synthetic rendition that brings warmth to the base, making up a significant 22.8% of the composition. Amber Extreme from IFF (2% dilution) is included in trace amounts (0.21%) for its diffusive, dry amber quality.
Base Notes: Red Amber Accord and Tonka Bean Absolute [8:32]
The star of the show, the red amber accord (50% dilution), forms the basis of the scent, making up 14% of the concentrate. This accord, a mix of labdanum, benzoin, vanillin, peru balsam, and styrax, brings a balsamic, leathery, and tobacco-like feel. To round out the base, tonka bean absolute (10% dilution) is added, combining natural and synthetic tonka for a realistic smell with chemical longevity.
Middle Notes: Iso E Super and Rose [11:12]
Transitioning to the middle notes, Iso E Super (100% neat) is included to provide a bed for the other scents to sit on, making up 16.5% of the total. Rose is introduced with two types: Rose Givco (25% dilution), a synthetic rose, and rose absolute from Morocco (25% dilution), known for its spicy, dirty scent. The total rose composition is around 10%.
Middle Notes: Coffee Bean and Cardamom [13:51]
A touch of coffee bean absolute (10% dilution) is added to bring a warm, gourmand quality to the mids, preventing the rose from making the scent too fresh. Cardamom essential oil (25% dilution) is used to blend the top and mid notes, adding a fresh spiciness.
Top Notes: Aldehydes and Herbal Notes [16:33]
For the top notes, Ultrasyr (5% dilution) is included for a fresh, ozonic lift. Nutmeg (10% dilution) is added for a gourmand spiciness, but the amount is reduced to avoid overpowering the fragrance. C12 MNA aldehyde (0.5% dilution) is used in trace amounts for its long-lasting effect. Sweet basil (10% dilution) is added for a slight herbal freshness, kept low to avoid an overly herbal scent.
Top Notes: Citrus and Bergamot [21:15]
Blood orange (100% full strength) is the primary citrus note, providing a tart orange scent, making up 13% of the composition. This is backed by Orange Givco (10% dilution), a sweet synthetic orange, to help the orange profile last longer. Bergamot is added for freshness, using Bergamot Givco (100% full strength) and Bergamotol (25% dilution), both synthetic versions to balance the natural blood orange.
Top Notes: Precyclamen B and Perfumer's Alcohol [25:50]
Precyclamen B (3% dilution) is included for a fresh, green scent, dosed low to avoid making the fragrance too fresh. Finally, perfumer's alcohol is added to achieve an EDP concentration of 15%.
Final Thoughts and Advice [28:37]
The creator emphasizes the importance of letting the blend sit for at least 24 hours before making a final judgment, as the scent will evolve. He notes that he may still lower the nutmeg a bit. He encourages viewers to experiment and not to trash a blend immediately, but to give it time to develop. The video wraps up with a call for questions and suggestions for future formulation videos.